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A MODERN MAOPI 



A Trip to Maoriland 



BY 
PAKEHA MAORI." 






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LAKE PLACID, N. Y. 

OFFICE OF ''THE LAKE PLACID NEWS," 

Clifford Block, Main Street. 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
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TO MY READERS. 

In writing these pages I make no pretensions 
to literary ability, but will endeavor to take you 
step by step with me on a jaunt to New Zealand, 
Australia, etc. Having acted as courier some 
years since, I will again travel the same route. 
and with the aid of the reader's imagination, 
we will enjoy the trip together. I give no dis- 
tances or dry data, but will simply jump from 
one place to the other and see and enjoy wliat 
there is of it. Trusting the reader will pardon 
the many faults. 

I am. respectfully. 

• Pakeha Maori." 



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PREFACE. 

Xew Zealand, the laud of the Maori and the Moa, the 
country in which originally there was not a tlovrer with 
a perfume or a bird that sang, was one of the most mys- 
terious and desolate lands on this hemisphere. Out of 
the ti*ack ol the early mariners it was a great undertak- 
ing in the years gone by to reach there, vessels 
taking six to eight months to reach its shores, where now 
it can be accomplished in about forty-five days. Ac- 
cording to some it was uninhabited till by gales or tribal 
wars membei'S of the Kanaka tribe (Sandwich Islands) 
were driven to seek an asylum in this wild and mystic 
country To bear out that theory the customs of the 
Maoris and the Kanaka are similar; but, through clim- 
atic conditions, they have grown taller and sturdier. 
As to animal life there was none until Captain Cook, the 
discoverer, landed some pigs, which fact, no doubt, was 
the cause of canibalism being practiced. Xow, what a 
transformation, fine cities, large tracts of cultivated 
land, woolen and other manufactories, gold and coal 
mining, an immense frozen meat industry, with wool 
and wheat as a background; in fact everything that goes 
to make a prosperous country is in full swing. The one 
thing is left, and will be there for all time, its grand and 
wildly rugged coast line, for it has that peculiarity, that 
its interior is sheltered from the rude blasts of gales, as 
a garden protected by a high Avail. 



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£. Trip to J^aoriland. 

CHAPTER I. 

It was on the evening of August 18, 1906, that a party 
were lounging on the piazza of an Hotel in the Village of 
Lake Placid, N. Y., when the conversation turned on 
where they should go next. All were tired of following 
the beaten track year after year, when one of the group 
addressed another, saying: ''Jack, old man, you had 
many years experience in ISTew Zealand, didn't youf ' 
To which the reply was, '' Yes, fifteen years, and have 
travelled it from one end to the other." The result of 
that answer was the unanimous decision of taking a trip 
to that comparatively little known countiy. 

After the usual preliminaries had been got over, such 
as deciding on the route, packing trunks, and not for- 
getting the all important check book, we started for the 
nearest shipping point, Montreal (so as to make the cir- 
cuit of the globe we take this route) where we secured 
berths on the Allan Liner "Tunisian," which duly 
landed us at Liverpool; where, after spending a day or 
two sight-seeing, we took train for London, which was 
reached in a few hours. Securing accommodation we 
call at the office* of the White Star Line and secured our 
passages on board the "Coptic," said vessel was to de- 
part the next day for Auckland, Xew Zealand. 

Getting up bright and early we recognize the fact that 
only now were our travels commencing. Arriving at the 
Tilbury Dock a busy scene meets the eve; merchandize 



2 A TRIP TO MAORI LAND 

of every description, baggage, etc., are piled up in ap- 
parent confusion. The noise of the steam winches, the 
hoaise shouting of the foremen, creating a perfect bed- 
lam of noise. But, when the hour of departure arrived, 
the whole mass had been swallowed up in the immense 
holds of the vessel, and only the shrill cry of the sturdy 
boatswain's whistle is to l)e heard, with an occasional 
order from one of the officers of the ship. The ropes are 
cast off from the pier and we are now steaming down 
that busy highway, the River Thames, with some 
14,000 miles before us. ' 

In a few hours we pass the ancient town of Gravesend 
and also have a view of the Greenwich Observatory and 
hospital. By this time we have stowed everything in 
its place so we decide to take a walk around our floating 
village, as it might be aptly termed, for there are some 
1,200 people on board. The vessel is lit up with electric 
lights, and as we walk along the main deck, 400 feet in 
length, it is like walking down a well lit pi-omenade. 
Peeking through the windows of the magnificently fur- 
nished saloon with its swinging tables, library, boudoir, 
piano and smoking-room, all handsomely decorated with 
flowers and ferns, the well disciplined waitei-s flitting 
hither and thither, and we recognize that we are on a 
modern high-class floating hotel. 

It is with paiticular interest we inspect the lifei)oat^, 
rafts, etc., with a fervent hope that there would be no 
need of tlieni. We then descend into the bowels of the 
ship and gaze with wonder at the huge machinery that 
was needed to propel the vessel through the water; and, 
just imagine, consuming 800 tons of coal a day for some 
forty-five days. 

After noting everything that was to be seen we take 
our lay-back chairs and settle down to gaze at the Aarious 



A TRIP TO ^fAORTLAXD 3 

points of interest on the coast of old England. ]S^ow we 
are passing close to Beachy Head, with its powerful 
lighthouse; then we skirt the Isle of Wight, with the 
Xeedles light pointing out the entrance to the Solent, the 
highway to Southampton. Then, in succession, we pass 
Dirngeness and Falmouth; the last glimpse of its shores 
being the Lizard light, and we are now on the bosom o£ 
the Xorth Atlantic, our bow pointing to the southward 
and nothing visible but a sail dotted here and there on 
the horizon. 

By now everyone feels perfectly at home and rid of 
that bane, sea-sickness, and turn their attention to the 
various amusements provided for them . Quoits, tennis 
( a netting being stretched around to prevent the balls 
going overboard), hop-scotch, and many other games. 
Dancing is a favorite form of amusement in the evening, 
also concerts, lectures and readings in the main saloon, 
and delightful promenades by the light of the moon (or 
without the moon ) on the decks; whei'e you can lean on 
tlie rail and watch the phosphoiesent track of the vessel 
while murmuring " soft nothings" to your companion, 
that is, of course, if of the opposite sex. 






CHAPTER II. 

We are now some three days out when the word goes 
around that land is in sight, to which direction all eyes 
are turned, and a flutter of excitement permeates the 
whole community. 

We soon espy the high land of the island of St. Vin- 
cent, one of the Cape de Verde group, and the officers 
and seamen are all busy getting everthing in shape for 
anchoring. Though St. Vincent is generally termed a 
coaling port, it is a most lovely spot, and has a splendid 
climate. The anchor had barely touched the bottom 
when the vessel is surrounded with boats containing 
fruit, coral, freak fish, grass work, etc , which were sold 
at reasonable prices. Great amusement was afforded by 
the diving for coins by a horde of dusky urchins, who 
appeared to be as much at home in the water as a fish. 
We would wrap a coin in a piece of paper, throw it into 
the water, and before it had sank many fathoms one of 
the number would come to the surface, hold it up for 
inspection and yell for more. The anchor is hove up to 
the cathead and we are again under weigh for 04.ir next 
place of call, Eio de Janeiro, Brazil. 

We are now in the tropics, and well we know it. The 
intense heat and heavy downpours of rain make things 
sort of uncomfortable; but it would be more so if it were 
not for the awnings that are stretched fore-and-aft, so 
that we are out of the rays of the sun and able to walk 
the deck and keep di-y. 

We passed the island of Fernandez, a Portuguese 
penal settlement, and for complete isolation well suited 



A TRIP TO MAOEILAND 5 

for its purpose, and were able to discern the white 
painted buildings in which many unfortunates were 
doomed to pass the remainder of their lives. 

A new source of enjoyment now opens up to pass the 
time away. Xow. you can see the apparently ungainly 
porpoise playing around the bows of the vessel as if she 
was stopped, instead of going through the water at the 
rate of twenty knots an hour; darting from one side to 
the other, leaping high out of the water, and diving 
gracefully l)ack into their native element, as if in wan- 
ton sport. 

There are also the l)onita, albercore, barracouta, and 
the dolphin, the latter when caught changes to all the 
colors of the rain))ow before it gives its last gasp. See 
them chasing a school of tlying fish, leaping out of the 
water and hurling themselves many feet in advance, as 
they ruthlessly pursue their prej^ The unfortunate 
flying-fish is in a bad fix; as he leaps from the water 
and flies in a direct line with the wind (remaining up 
only so long -as his wings, or extended fins, remain wet) 
to escape the maws of the above-mentioned voracious 
fish, only to be gobbled up by some feathered enemy or 
falling on some ship's deck to form a welcome fry for 
some fortunate mariner. They are about the size and 
shape of a medium sized herring with glistening scales. 

AA'hile on the subject of flying-fish, it recalls the storj^ 
of the cabin boy on his return from his first trip to sea. 
He is relating to his aged grandmother the various 
siglits he had seen, among them being ' 'mountains of 
sugar, rivers of rum, and flying-fish." The old lady, 
after an interval of thought, remarked: 

•'Well, sonny, I'll believe there are mountains of 
sugar and rivers of rum; but I'll never believe there are 
flying-fish." There are many like the old lady, but it 
is a fact all the same. 



G A TRIP TO MAOKILAXD 

''There she blows!" aud a school of sperm whales are 
visible. They are not more than 200 or 300 feet distant, 
and it was quite an experience to gaze at these hnge 
monsters of the deep as they would lazily rise to the 
surface and "blow" through their blow-holes and spout- 
ing water high into the air, their immense square heads 
and humps being plainly visible as they wallowed about, 
then without apparent effort they sank below the wave 
and are lost to view, to appear miles off in another direc- 
tion to take in another supply of air, for being warm 
blooded they cannot exist without it. 

A good idea as to the size of these huge mammalia 
may be formed by the knowledge that a large sperm 
whale will yield as much as 300 barrels of oil. 






A TEIP TO MAOEILAND 



CHAPTEE III. 

We notice that mysterious preparations are taking- 
place, the seamen being particularly energetic, and all 
wearing an air of secrecy. -We are forcibly made aware 
of the reason the next day, as we are duly informed that 
we are on the equator (more generally called the line), 
which meant that all who had not crossed the said line 
before have to pay toll to Father ^STeptune, who would 
arrive on board with all his retinue in the evening' for 
that purpose. This news had the effect of making one 
of the party, ^Ir. Cheesman, our photographer, hustle 
to get his apparatus ready so as to secure a picture of 
this notable ceremony. 

True enough, at ''eight bells'' of the afternoon watch 
(4: p.m.) a hoarse cry is heard from the direction of the 
l)Ows of the ship, and after an answering hail from the 
officer on tlie bridge. Xeptune with trident in hand (on 
which was stuck a dried red herring), accompanied by 
Amphitrite, his wife, and their attendants, clamber over 
the rail and proceed aft, where they are received by the 
captain, when after mutual salutations, Father Xeptune 
states the object of his visit — to gather toll from all who 
had not previously crossed his particular domain. In 
default of payment the "neAV chum" has to face the or- 
deal of being shaved with a large wooden razor, and a 
lather composed of several ingredients, principally tar 
and soap; said shave winding up with the individual 
being tipped backward into a sail stretched out for that 
purpose and filled with water. Ladies are exempt; but 
all male passengers, of whatever degree, have to ' 'play 



8 A TEIP TO 3IA01iir.AXD 

or pay." Most all entered into the rough sport, which 
lasted for an hour or two, when feeling pretty tired, all 
get below to change their clothes, while "Jack" goes 
forward to his quarters to count the spoils and divide 
pro rata. 

In the course of a few days ''Land ho!" is again heard 
and away on the starboard bow looms Cape Frio, some 
sixty miles north of Eio de Janeiro, where we have to 
stop for a lew houre to replenish the coal bunkei'S. As 
we near the land we cannot see an entrance, but soon ah 
opening is seen in the coast line, through which we en- 
ter. A gun is fired from a nearby fort, a boat puts off 
and is rowed toward us, and getting alongside a gorgeous 
official climbs up the side-ladder. VTe gaze in admira- 
tion at the creation of gold lace and buttons, thinking 
that we were having the honor of a visit from one of the 
high officials; but were considerably disgusted to learn 
that it was simply the custom's officer. After inspection 
we steam up one of the finest harbors in the world; an 
inland sea dotted with islands. A magnificent pano- 
rama meets our gaze; on the left lies Bota Foga. where 
the European population reside, with its long promenade 
and shady trees, through Avhich the electric lights fiickei" 
and the music of a first-class band is borne over the 
harbor, giving one an impression of a veritable fairyland. 
Further up we pass several forts, only partially rebuilt 
since the stirring times of the revolution, and are now 
opposite the main landing of the city. Some decide on 
a run ashore, but we decide to *'do the place" on our 
way back. , 

Taking into consideration the manner in which it was 
done, the coal was put aboard in a marvelous short 
space of time. A coal barge comes alongside, two 
stages are vwu out, up one comes a single tile of men. 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 9 

each with a basket on their head containing about 25 lbs. 
of coal, w hich they empty into the hold, then down they 
go over the other gangway, thus forming an endless 
chain, and in a short while some hundreds of tons of 
coal are loaded. 

Except by permission no vessel is allowed to enter or 
leave Eio between sunset or sunrise; but having this the 
anchor is hove up, when under a cloudless sky and 
twinkling stai*s we again pass through the entrance and 
gain the open sea, our bo.ws still turned to the South, to 
see no more land until we arrive at the Cape of Good 
Hope, at which port we arrived in due time; but, after 
following the course of the late war in the papere and 
viewed the pictures, it was with only slight interest we 
gazed upon this truly magnificent bay, with the numer- 
ous steamers and sailing craft of every nationality lying 
at anchor, coming and going from all parts of the globe. 
Table Mountain loomed above the city and its well kept 
villas and shaded streets. From the boatmen that 
swarmed around us we laid in a stock of fruit,*etc., but 
still eveiyone is pleased to hear the clang of the windlass 
heaving up the anchor, for now we know that we are on 
the last lap of our long journey, and that in some four- 
teen days our goal would be reached. In fact, the pre- 
ceding travels seemed to pale into insignificance when 
the thoughts flew to what was to come, and all com- 
menced to count the hours. 



M/Z. 



10 A TRIP TO MAOEILAND 



CHAPTEE IV. 

What a difference in the weather to what we have 
been having. Xow, it is almost continually blowing and 
raining; out-door sports are things of the past; instead, 
concerts, cards and music are the predominant factoid to 
pass away the time. Here is where the story-teller is 
appreciated, and can always count upon a large and ap- 
preciative audience. \Vhen off duty the officers of the 
ship would join us in the smoking-room and add their 
quota to the yains told. Here is a sample of them as 
told with all due seriousness. 

The fourth officer, after duly filling his pipe, told us 
of an experience that occurred to him on a vessel when 
rounding Cape Horn one winter. He stated that the 
temperature was so low that when the captain issued his 
orders the words fell to the deck in frozen chunks, from 
where they were picked up, taken to the ship's cook 
house and thawed out in a pan over a hot fire, thus being 
made intelligible to the men and duly carried out. 

To cap this the "second" averred that he was onboard 
a vessel in the Indian Ocean when a typhoon struck the 
vessel, and solemnly stated that if the mate had not held 
the captain's hair it would have been blown off his head. 
A listener interrupted him and asked who held the 
mate's hair on; receiving the reply: ''Why, the second- 
mate, of course." Well, "Who held the second-mate's 
hair on?" to be met with the reply, "One of the able 
seamen." So it went on till he had got down to the last 
man on the ship, the cook. The interrogator then asked 
with a note of triumph, "Well, who held the cook's hair 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 11 

ouf only to be told that no one was necessary as "he 
was bald-headed." These and many others help to kill 
the hours on this dreary and monotonous passage. 

The short days and long nights have come and gone 
and a perceptible difference is to be noted in the de- 
meanor of the passengers; appearance is more studied, 
restlessness seems to have permeated everbody, and 
anxious glances are cast ahead, as if in tense anticipation. 
Inquiry solves the problem; the captain expects to pick 
up the pilot some time during the next twenty-four 
hours. And, it is only those who have put in thirty or 
forty days on a passage can realize the pleasure of hear- 
ing that the pilot would soon be on board. When, at 
last, the pilot boat is sighted, then brought close to the 
vessel and a wee, small boat put over her side and three 
men get into it, a hurrah is given by the throng clustered 
along the deck . And when the said pilot comes up the 
side ladder, he is almost torn asunder with the hand- 
shaking he receives. Smiling benignly on all and hand- 
ing several welcom3 letters and newspapers, he ascends 
to the bridge and takes over the command from the 
captain, who has brought us thus far safely, and who, I 
guess, was as glad to see the pilot as the rest of us. To- 
morrow morning we will sight Auckland, our first port 
of call, and all hands, no doubt, ^dll be glad to be on 
terra firma once more. 

Up at break of day we find we are steaming up a tor- 
tuous channel, which twists and twines like some huge 
snake, and in a short time we look upon the City of 
Auckland, the most northern in New Zealand, and 
originally the seat of government. Lofty church spires 
are dotted here and there, towering above the other 
buildings, for here there are no sky-scrapere. We are 
now alongside the wharf, at which a fleet of schoonei*s, 



12 A TKIP TO MAOEIT.AND 

mostly local traders; others are discharging coal from 
Australia, while larger vessels are loading wool, tallow, 
kauri'i gum, hard wood, etc., for all parts of the globe. 

Getting our traps together we land, jump into a lig, 
which drops us at one of the many comfortable hotels, 
when, after a bath and feed, we sally forth to take a 
look around. Strolling up Queen street, one of the 
principal thoroughfares, we find it replete with up-to- 
date buildings, presenting stores with well displayed 
goods and altogether modern. A number of the streets 
are paved with scoria or lava, which is got from some 
nearby extinct volcano. 

After visiting all points of interest we turn our steps 
toward the wharf to visit the warehouses, and to in- 
spect the celebrated kaurri gum, about which we had 
heard so much. Accompanied by a resident we enter 
and look upon a busy scene; huge heaps of amber- colored 
substance, in all shapes and sizes, lay scattered around. 
A number of men are busily scraping the dried earth 
from it; then it is taken to another department where 
experts giade it, and it is finally packed in cises for 
shipment, the bulk of it going to Xew York, where it is 
turned to various uses. Like am])er, it is clouded or 
transparent according to quality. 

It was with great pleasure we accept the offer of an 
experienced gam digger to accompany him on a trip. 
His tools consisted of a rod with a sharp-pointed steel 
end, a swag holding his blankets, a ''billy," similar to 
our "growler," used for all purposes, and a frying-pan 
to cook his flapjacks. Proceeding quite a distance into 
the country our friend commenced operations. "Walking 
slowly he kept prodding with his steel-pointed rod, when 
after covering a considerable distance he struck a hard 
substance (the gum is found within a few inches of the 



A TEIP TO MAORILAND 13 

surface; said gum being the remains of vast kaurri 
forests devastated by fire in a bygone era) he stops and 
scrapes out the mass from its earthy bed, sometimes a 
large quantity is found, oftener a small one. He puts 
them in heaps till he has gathered sufficient to pack it 
to the city, where it is sorted and he receives the current 
price, with which as a rule he proceeds to enjoy himself 
while it lasts, when off he goes to seek for more. The 
life has the fascination of gold digging as well as hard- 
ships. 

Strolling through the fish market we noticed what ap- 
peared to be a heap of broken rock, which turned out to 
be oysters, said oysters being in clusters of a dozen or 
more, quite an undertaking for the inexperienced to 
open them. They have the other kind, too, they term 
them "mud oysters.'' Here we likewise see the king- 
fish, weighing as much as 400 pounds and over. Other 
fish are plentiful, the schnapper, terokee, baracoutta, 
horse-mackerel, gurnet, rock cod, flounder, etc. The 
waters are teeming with fish, and you can fill a basket 
in short time from any dock with any old tackle. 

We now pay a flying visit to the hot and sulphur 
springs of Tarawera (f). Here are sulpher springs into 
which you may plunge and come out coated with sul- 
phur, many visit them for various complaints. There 
are geysers of hot water spouting high up into the air, 
at their base the mud being in some cases hot enough to 
cook a potato, seething and bubbling as if over a vast 
cauldron, which perchance it is. Here we gaze in ad- 
miration upon the pink and white terraces (a rock form- 
ation), its appearance having been vastly altered just 
before our arrival by earthquake, ashes being thrown 
and scattered for miles around, killing all vegetation, 
but still adding another AA^onder to this already wonder- 
ful countrv. 



14 A TKIP TO MAOKILAND 



CHAPTEK Y. 

Back to the hotel and immensely plea,sed with what 
we had seen, we hold a consultation as to whether we go 
overland or by boat to Taranaki, the boat getting the 
verdict. So, after a good supper, a smoke and "light" 
refreshments, we turn in so as to be up early and catch 
the "Eangatia,'' said boat not being "fast and furious" 
but sale— the main object to those in pursuit of pleasure. 

We tumble out in the early morn and wend our way 
to the wharf, where we get on board, and we are again 
steaming down the crooked channel, every bend opening 
up a new panorama, a fact, of which our photographic 
chum, Cheesman, took full advantage of. 

In due course we arrive off Taranaki, where there is 
no harbor, the landing being done in surf boats on a 
rocky shore and through tumbling surf. So, it being 
Hobson's choice, "that or nothir-g, " we take our plsc'^s 
with the chance of a wet jacket and make for the shore. 
We land without mishap and bend our steps in company 
with a guide to visit a Pah (a blockhouse) with 'its 
palisades and ditches, where in the past the Maoris 
kept regiments of the British at bay for a consideiable 
while; but, ultimately had to succumb to modern fight- 
ing machinery. Away back of this is the King country, 
where the bulk of the Maoris live. The late and last king, 
Tawhiao, prohibited the entry of intoxicating liquoi'S 
into his domain, which proved his wisdom. The Maori 
is naturally abstemious, which accounts for their splen- 
did physique and intelligence. In their business trans- 
actions they are strictly honest, and in their marital 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 15 

relations and home affairs they are beyond reproach. 
Following is a description of a native welcome at the 
central home of a tribe of Maoris. 

As we rested beneath the parapets we were startled by 
a horrible yell, and round the corner of the stockade ap- 
peard a ferocious figure, tattooed, red painted, befeath- 
ered and naked, except for a very brief waist fringe of 
dangling palm fibre. His eyes rolled till the whites only 
were seen; then he thrust out a long and snaky tongue 
and grimaced fearfully. Shaldng a wooden spear in his 
liand, he swiftly cast it at us, then turned and rushed 
toward the village. Just as the spearsman turned one 
of our young men (a native) who had rapidly divested 
himself of all but his waist shaw^l started out in pursuit, 
and we followed at a more dignified pace. The entrance 
to the village was barred by a body of armed men, 
crouching still as death, on one knee, each holding a 
gun, button the ground, barrel sloping toward us. AVe 
advanced until we were within twenty paces of the war- 
I'ioi's. Then all at once, at a wild cry from a chief on 
the right, they jumped to their feet, leaped high in the 
air, with their feet doubled under them like deer, and 
with one voice literally barked out a thundering chorus. 
This way and that our martial hosts bounded, brandish- 
ing their loaded rifles in time to the chant. Halting 
abruptly, with an earth shaking thud, they fired a vol- 
ley of ball cartridge over our hieads. 

Another volley reverbrated from hill to hill and the 
bullets whistled over us. Then the brown warriois fell 
back and a gayly dressed band of women, with green 
leaves wreatlied about their brows and waving shawls 
and leafy boughs, advanced with a gliding semi- dance 
and chanted their ancient welcome song. When the 
women's song ceased out to the front danced six girls — 



16 A TRIP TO MAOKILAND 

a group of vividly barbaric, yet not inharmouioiLS, color 
— appareled in loose crimson roundabouts and short 
gowns of gorgeously flowered print, their brows bound 
about with red handkerchiefs, which held in place the 
black and white plumes of the rare huia bird and the 
iridescent feathers of the long tailed cuckoo, their cheeks 
dabbed with red ochre paint, greenstone pendants and 
shark's teeth hanging from their ears. 

These bare footed nymphs, hands on hips and heads 
thrown back, glided into the meavSure of a dance to the 
music of a shrill monody chanted by a white-haired, 
tattooed old lady. Then all at once the chant ended on 
an unexpected high note and the performers stopped, 
breathless and glowing all over with their self evolved 
emotions. Broad flax mats were spread out for us on 
the green and after speeches of greeting we were regaled 
with pork, preserved birds, wild honey and potatoes, in 
quantity sufficient to have satisfied a starving garrison. 

The time alloAved us had expired so we return to the 
boat and get on board highly delighted with our novel 
experience. The anchor is hove up and away we go for 
Wanganui, where we just get a glimpse of the town from 
the roadstead, and we proceed for the place called by 
some the "garden of Xew Zealand," ]*^elson. 

The town of Xelson is quite a thriving place, ex]3ort- 
ing large quantities of ft'uit and vegetables, besides hav- 
ing several large factories for the making of jam, etc. 

After a stay of an hour or two we are again en route, 
still going south. 

Just after losing sight of Xelson we espy the peak of 
a lofty mountain, Mt. Egmont, whose eternally snow- 
capped head presents a guide to the mariner from many 
miles away, and enables him to mc»re accurately place 
the entrance to Cook's Straits, named after that great 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 17 

navigator. Passing under its shawdow we enter the 
straits and now have land on both sides of us; bleak, 
rugged and weather beaten, but still beautiful in its 
lonesome and majestic grandeur. We pass numerous 
headlands and- bays with very little in the way of change 
of scene, except that here and there we see some small 
coasting vessels hugging the land as they slowly make 
their way to some hamlet to gather wool or flax to be 
transhipped to one of the large ocean carriers lying in 
Wellington harbor. 

After some hours steaming our bows are turned to- 
ward the land and soon we are entering the heads, or 
entrance to Wellington harbor, previously known as Port 
Nicholson. The passage is exceedingly narrow; but as 
we get through we pass the pilot station, which lay 
nestled at the foot of a hill, at the top of which was the 
signal station that flashed the news to the city. 

We are now in a magniticent land-locked basin - if you 
entered during darkness you could look around next 
morn and not be able to see an entrance — large enough 
to hold the navies of the world, and with the exception 
of Bommes' Island in the center, without a rock, un- 
doubtedly the largest natural basin extant. According 
to Maori tradition it is the crater of an extinct volcano, 
a reasonable deduction, as up to a-ecent years earthquake 
was much in evidence. We round the next headland 
and we l)ehold Wellington, the capital city of New Zea- 
land, a pretty picture; the hills forming a background 
to the city and the clear blue waters of the bay. 

We tie up to the wharf, at which lie a fleet of steam 
and sailing vessels, all being loaded with wool, hides; 
tallow, etc.; the larger steamers l)eing specially fitted, 
taking in thousands of carcases of frozen sheep, etc., for 



18 A TRIP TO MAORILAXD 

the English market. At this season so great is the rush 
that they work nights by the electric light to get the 
vessels away. 

We pack up our ti'aps and proceed to the Eoyal Hotel 
at the Thorndon end of the city, where after a wash and 
a well piepared meal, we turn out for a tour of inspec- 
tion. We fii-st visit Government House, the residence of 
the Governor, the Hi»use of Parliament, Supreme Gourt 
and the Government Building, the latter said to be the 
largest wooden building in the world, covering an area 
of two acres. We then take in the Museum, which has 
a splendid collection of Maori weapons and everything 
else pertaining to the country. A most interesting ex- 
hibit was the skeleton of the gigantic Denornis, or Moa. 
a bird, the bone of its ]eg being a great deal larger than 
that of the biggest ostrich or emu. A few steps and we 
enter the Botanical Gardens, which lie in a canon at the 
foot of the Tinalvori Hills; these gardens cover an area of 
about 100 acres, beautifully laid out, and a favorite 
lesort of the people. 

We now retrace our steps and wend our way along 
Lambton Quay with its handsome stores and hotels; up 
Willis street and we are in Te Aro. the main end of the 
city, which extends away up the valley from which it 
takes its name; the residents being mainly composed of 
the toilers of the community. We take a cui-sory look 
at the well appointed hospital and its extensive' and well 
laid out grounds. 

Being a long distance from oui' hotel it was pioposed 
that we drop into a restaurant and eat, and we do so. 
One of the party picked up the bill of fare, aji item on 
which immediately caught his eye. ''That for mine," 
said he. Being requested to elucidate he pointed out 
the entry, which read ''Colonial (joose.-- It was unani- 



A TEIP TO MAORILAND 19 

moiisly decided by the crowd that it would be appro- 
priate to patronize "Colonial goose," and the order was 
forthwith given . The waiter was not slow in filling the 
order and we soon had our plates in front of us; but it 
must have been a mighty large goose, for the amount of 
breast meat was prodigious, and ne'er a leg or wing on 
any plate; but it was real good and the dressing was 
rich, so we fell upon it with sharp appetites. One of the 
party, hungrier than the rest called for a second helping, 
asking the waiter for awing. "A wing," queried the 
waiter, with a puzzled look on his face. Eecollection 
seemed to dawn upon him, and he gently remarked that 
the sheep in jS^ew Zealand were minus that appendage. 
In explanation he pointed out to us that "Colonial 
goose" was a shoulder of mutton stuffed similarly. 

Feeling like giants refreshed, we take the road along 
the water front en route for a pretty little suburb called 
Oriental Bay, its dainty little cottages perched on the 
hill side, their boat and bathing houses on the sandy 
beach opposite; and in the distance the mountain tops 
with lieecy clouds hovering o'er them. 

The road we are travelling skirts the bay for miles, a 
perfect driving road, cut out of the face of the hill on 
the one side, the beach on the other. We finally reach 
the peninsula, a ridge of sand connecting the pilot sta- 
tion with the mainland, and which, according to the 
oldest Maoris, was at one time the entrance to the har- 
bor. Leaving this behind we arrive at Kilbernie, and 
climbing up a steep hill get to Newtown, where we 
find a hotel and take a much -needed rest and refresh- 
ment before starting for Island Bay. We wend our way 
across undulating downs and come to the race track; a 
gem in the matter of setting. Imagine a nicely sheltered 
basin, shut in on three sides with verdant hills; on the 



'20 A TRIP TO MAORILAND 

other the Paeihe ocean gently purling on the beach. In 
the center lies a splendid os aL railed in, with a track as 
springy and well kept as a lawn, and no necessity to 
purchase a grand stand seat, the hillsides seating the 
multitude with the blue sky as a roof. The only betting 
allowed is on the totalizator, a bettiyg machine. 

While sti'olling on the shore we Avitnessed a novel 
procedure. A man was spearing crayfish (similar in 
shape to a lobster, but red in color and a prickly shell ) 
from on the outlying locks, and nothing would do but 
one of our party must try his hand at it. And he did. 
Borrowing the spear he started in, his first attempt 
landing him head first in the "briny,'"' he scrambled out 
and was the only one who did not see where the laugh 
came in. He will undoubtedly remember that seaweed 
on a rock is not a safe footing. 

AVith regret we tuin our backs oii Island Bay and 
make tracks for the city, where we duly arrive, tired, 
but highly pleased with our day. Smoking our pipes 
after supper we decide to take train on the moriow for 
the Lower Hutt. 










AN EXTINCT MAORI 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 21 



CHAPTEE YIII. 

Having made the acquaintance of a gentleman who 
knew Enoka, the chief of a Maori village at Waiwetu we 
proceed to pay it a visit. Beaching the Lower Hutt we 
cross a tract of country called Petone, passing on our 
way several empty whares (huts) the Maori resident 
having died, and are not inhabited after, for what reason- 
we were not informed. 

Passing one ol these whares we noticed a bundle or 
roll of something lying on the rude piazza. Ii^oticing 
our attention our guide asked if we knew what that was, 
and on our replying in the negative, told us to accom- 
pany him to the porch. We do so, and to our surprise, 
he addressed the supposed bundle, and up arose an aged 
Maori, tattooed all over his face, neck and arms, at first 
glance appearing most hideous and repulsive, his sole 
garment being a blanket wrapped around him; he had a 
piece of greenstone hanging from one ear and another 
from the cartilege of the nose. Greenstone being the 
most valued of their posses.sions in the matter of adorn- 
ment. 

As regard tatooiug, it is not what we understand by 
the term. The Maori, with a sharp instrument cuts a 
deep and clean incision in the skin, following the lines 
of the face, nose, neck, etc., then pieces of wood are laid 
in to keep them open till they dry, when it is blued 
with a native everlasting dye, and there you are. When 
a native maiden marries she has her chin tattooed from 
the lower lip down, which disfigurement she is proud to 
carry to. her grave. 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 2i 



CHAPTER YIII. 

Having made the acquaintance of a gentleman who 
knew Enoka, the chief of a Maori village at Waiwetu we 
proceed to pay it a visit. Reaching the Lower Hutt we 
cross a tract of country called Petone, passing on our 
way sevei*al empty whares (huts) the Maori resident 
having died, and are not inhabited after, for what reason 
we were not informed. 

Passing one ol these whares we noticed a bundle or 
roll of something lying on the rude piazza. Noticing 
our attention our guide asked if we knew what that was, 
and on our replying in the negative, told us to accom- 
pany him to the porch. We do so, and to our surprise, 
he addressed the supposed bundle, and up arose an aged 
Maori, tattooed all over his face, neck and arms, at first 
glance appearing most hideous and repulsive, his sole 
garment being a blanket wrapped around him; he had a 
piece of greenstone hanging from one ear and another 
from the cartilege of the nose. Greenstone being the 
most valued of their possessions in the matter of adorn- 
ment. 

As regard tatooing, it is not what we undei'stand by 
the term. The Maori, with a sharp instrument cuts a 
deep and clean incision in the skin, following the lines 
of the face, nose, neck, etc., then pieces of wood are laid 
in to keep them open till they dry, when it is blued 
with a native everlasting dye, and there you are. When 
a native maiden marries she has her chin tattooed from 
the lower lip down, which disfigurement she is proud to 
carry to. her grave. 



22 A TEIP TO MAOEILAXD 

Aniviiig at tlie whaie of Enoka, the chief of tlie tribe, 
we are greeted with hearty ''Tinaqua's, " synonymous to 
our "How do you do." The native fashion of greeting 
(taking the place of our hand shake) is to rub noses, 
chanting a little song during the process; but this is 
waived on the reception of strangers. A\"e had arrived 
at an oppoitune time as regard viewing the customs of 
the natives, as a "tangi" or tribal meeting was in pro- 
gress, so we had the rare opportunity of seeing the 
'Miaka," war and other dances gone through. The>ie 
dances were not particularly graceful, but make up for 
that in agility and endurance. Their funei'al obsequies 
are similar toa "wake," tlie Momen relieving one another 
in crooning and feastin.g. 

Aftei' a Avalk through the village we resume our seats 
and again take 4;he main road, passing through Lower 
Hutt, Tapper Hutt and Silverstream; a well tind)ered 
valley, thiough which the Hutt liver wends its way to 
the sea. Here we were amazed at the size and (juantity 
of ferns, ranging fioin the delicate maiden hair to a 
gigantic fern Avliose stem is used for door posts, and 
which have the appearance of exquisite hand carving 
and are exceedingly handsome and unique. People 
come from all parts to collect these ferns. 

We now enter the Mungaroa A^alley, and after a drive 
of an hour oi- so over a road built through a swamp, we 
reach the foot of the Kimutaka Mountains. The coacli 
road, cut in the face of the mountain, is eleven miles up 
and nine miles down the other side. Slowly the horses 
climl). and aftei- getting well up it i-equiiesa strong head 
to look down into the canyon l)elow, where, a large sized 
building appeared no larger than a dog kennel; and as 
there is just room enough for the vehicle the outer wheels, 
to onr eyes, being 7'ather too close to the edge for perfect 



A TETP TO MAORILAND 28 

safety. In fact, two of our party preferred to walk, as 
they said they were not taking any chances. 

Onward and upward, the horses straining and pant- 
ing, and when near the summit we enter into a thick 
mist, which constantly hovers over the mountains at 
tills height; but on reaching a greater altitude we get 
above this and are at the summit, and what a glorious 
panorama bunsts upon us. 

Away down at our feet lay the Wairapa Valley with 
its cultivated areas and woods dotted here and there; 
nestling away to the right, at the base of the mountains, 
is Lake Wairapa, the sun shining on its placid surface 
creating reflections and colors, as of an immense rainbow. 
In fact, the whole landscape with its tints of green and 
gold and many browns, formed a picture that was worth 
the trouble and expense of the whole journey, and one 
that is almost impossible to describe, but must be seen. 

Beaching the bottom without mishap the first village 
we come to is Featherston, which lies under the shadow 
of the mountains and on the shores of Lake Wairarapa; 
but, deciding not to make a stay we push on for the next 
village, Carterton . 

• After a long drive and fording a river or two we reach 
Carterton and put up at the Marquis of Xormanby 
hotel. In this valley we see thousands of rabbits, the 
pest of this country and Australia. There are millions 
of them, and, though every means has been tried, it has 
been found impossible to reduce their number, let alone 
the extermination of them . Large numbers of men make 
a living by shooting them and selling their pelts. 

We here have an opportunity of taking part in a pig 
hunt. Starting oif in the early morn with the hunters 
and their dogs, which are of the mastif breed, and most 



24 A TRIP TO MAOKJI.AND 

of them scarred and maimed from many previous battles. 
The method of procedure was, when pigs were found the 
dogs rushed in among the herd and each seize a hog by 
the ear. and hang on til] the hunter gets up and shoots 
it — none to easy a job to avoid shooting the hound — as it 
is they get many ugly gashes from the "tuskers:" but 
they are game to the backbone, and will not loosen their 
hold as long as they have life. After a strenuous and 
most exciting day we retuin with the spoils to the hotel 
and retire early so as to be up on the morrow bright and 
early to start for Masterton. the principal a illage in the 
AVairarapa Valley. 

After an early breakfast and a splendid drive we 
reach Masterton and put up at the Club Hotel, where we 
take our seat on the broad piazza, light our pipes, and 
gaze at the Gladstone Mountains, at whose base runs the 
(xladstone Eiver, which, from a well defined water mark 
on the cliif side is at least forty feet lower now than in a 
by-gone age. The Wairarapa Valley is claimed to be 
the dry bed of a larger and pre-historic Lake Wairarapa. 



^t 







A MAORI HUT 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 25 



CHAPTEE IX. 

Having received an invitation to visit a sheep ranch 
some miles distant we decide to go on the morrow. It 
was rather a damper to some of the party to learn that 
the journey would have to be accomplished on horse 
back; but all were of one mind and bent on making the 
trip, even if they had to be tied on. 

Up bright and early, the sun just peeping o'er the 
mountain tops, we hastily make a hearty breakfast and 
proceed to the yard, many anxious glances being cast 
at the animals we had to ride; and after desperate ef- 
forts on the part of some we are all seated in the saddle, 
grim determination being visibly imprinted on most 
countenances, denoting that they do not intend to come 
off till they were good and ready; what the horses 
thought we could not surmise. To add insult to injury 
a small boy yells out, "Say, misters, hadn't you better 
get inside." 

After some two hours ridin/^ we arrive at a handsome 
homestead, surrounded with paddocks and barns, nest- 
led in a clump of trees, on the lawn in front of which 
stood our host, who received us in hearty Colonial 
stjde, and laughingly consented to Cheesman taking a 
photograph of himself and dwelling. Entering the 
house we were supplied with light refreshments and a 
good "smoke." We now follow our host and proceed 
to inspect the outbuildings, wool shed, etc. A short 
walk up the side of a hill and we are on the outer edge 
of a widely scattered flock of several thousand sheep ex- 
tending ovei- hill and dale for many miles: and here we 



26 A TRIP TO MAORILAND 

witness a sight, of \yhich we had heard so much, the 
sagacity and training of the sheep dogs (Scotch collies). 

Our host told the shepherd, a bright and athletic 
young man, to put his dogs (three beauties) to work and 
round up the sheep. The shepherd, calling the dogs by 
name, gave his command, and away they go. One dog, 
called the pivot dog, started running backward and for- 
ward in a direct line barking continuously: the other 
two start in opposite directions, in a half-circle, gradu- 
ally concentrating them until the whole flock was a 
compact mass. The dogs worked untiringly, always 
barking but not biting, unless some more or less unruly 
sheep persisted in breaking out, then they v»'ou]d nip the 
animal on the hind leg as a reminder. 

Highly pleased with what we had seen we proceed a 
bit further to the stockyard, where they were going to 
cut out some stock. 

Arriving there we see some hundreds of hoi-ned cattle, 
half wild, snorting and V)ellowing, and surrounded by a 
number of ••cattlemen,'' all yelling like Comanche In- 
dians. Tlie term ''cowboy'* is not known here. 

There is still another diiference. here there is no lassoe, 
but the rancher uses the stockwhip, which article re- 
quires an immense amount of pi*actice to become pro- 
ticient in its use. Just imagine, the handle is only 
about 2 feet in length, while the lash is from 20 to 30 
feet. In the hands of these experiencz^d men, when it 
strikes its object it has the effect of a- shot from a gun. 
They pick out the needed bullock which is making a 
frantic break for liberty, and without apparent eftbrt 
the stockman uses his whip to flick the nose of that 
animal with the effect of stopping him in his tracks as if 
he had been mortally wounded; and so it goes on until 
they have culled all the animals needed. 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 27 

Here, also, we were shown a stuffed kea, a species of 
parrot, that kills a large number of sheep. Its manner 
of proceedure being to attack the unfortunate sheep by 
alighting on its back, near the shoulder, plunging its 
powerful beak into the frightened and quivering animal, 
which runs in a vain attempt to shake off its foe till it 
drops exhausted, when the kea tears away its fill of the 
flesh of the still living animal, then flies off to the hills. 
These birds are seldom shot, being wary in the extreme. 

Parting with our hospitable host we return to the 
hotel dusty and tired, but well pleased with our day's 
experiences, and just in" time to see a band of Maories 
rush through the town like a whirlwind on horseback, 
some horses having two on their back. They rode by 
yelling and shouting like a band of flends; and a Maori 
never lets up on a horse till he reaches his destination, 
be it one mile or twenty. 

Seeing two mounted on one horse reminded me of the 
yarn regarding the sailors who went to a livery stable 
bent on taking a horse ride. One of the bunch was de- 
puted to do the hiring. He duly went to the proprietor 
and tackled him in this manner: 

"Say, boss, have you got a long-backed horse to hire 
out!" 

To which query the proprietor replied: 

"Well they are all pretty much of a length. Why?" 

"Because," explained Jack, "We must have a long- 
backed one, for there are six of us." 

After a bath and a hearty supper we proceed to take 
a bird's eye view of this pretty little town, for in the 
morning we will retrace our steps to Featherston and 
from thence take that wonderful railway over the other 
side of the Eimutaka Mountains. 



28 A TRIP TO MAORILAND 

Arriviug at Featherston we take the cars and com- 
mence the ascent of the mountain side, which necessi- 
tates a middle, cogged rail, that is gripped by a wheel 
manipulated by a brakesman in a car constructed solely 
for this purpose. On reaching the top the brakes are 
put hard on for the down grade, and the impetous is 
such that the whole length of cars have blazing boxes, 
some of them having to be run on a siding at the foot to 
have new ones put in. The wind rages here, at times, 
witli such force that some years ago a whole train was 
blown over the declivity and remained suspended from 
the engine, which fortunately held on. To avoid a repe- 
tition of this nature they now attach an engine to each 
end, even then the gusts from the gullies almost tear 
the cars from the rails. 

A pleasing and apt illustration of the benefits of 
Government ownership of the railways was the stopping 
of the train at different points on the route to pick up 
groups of children and landing them at the schoolhouse 
some miles away, the guard taking care of them; the 
same process is repeated on the return, thus enabling all 
the children in the country to be educated. 

Arriving at Petone we visit an immense refrigerating 
plant, where thousands of sheep, quarters of beef, etc., 
are frozen for shipment to the other side of the globe. 
It was a novelty to witness the process; outside bright 
sunshine and warm weather, inside as if in the arctic 
regions, the cold. air chilling one to the bone. Lit with 
electricity^, j^ou can just dimly see the men carrying the 
frozen carcases in their arms and loading them into cars 
for transhipment to the steamer lying at the wharf in 
Wellington, a none too healthy occupation. 



A TitIP TO MAOiilLAND 29 

We walk to the Lower Hutt railway station and in a 
short time we are again walking the streets of "windy'' 
Wellington. Arriving at the hotel we "fix" ourselves 
up and proceed to the office of the Union Steamship 
Company and secure our tickets for Port Lyttelton, the 
first place we intend to visit on the Middle Island, said 
port being the outlet for the immense grain producing 
Canterbury plains. 






30 , A TEIP TO MAORILAND 



CHAPTER X. 

Up with the lark we take our grips and sleepily wend 
our way to the wharf where we find the steamer ready 
to cast off. We are soon across the bay and again pass 
through the "heads'' and out into Cook's Strait. Away 
on our left lies Blenheim, which is reached by ascending 
a small and shallow river; further along we are abreast 
of Cloudy Bay, about the only haA'en of refuge on the 
south side in the whole strait, and then only safe in cer- 
tain winds. Cloudy Bay is also a prolific fishing ground. 
Still skirting the land we come to the French Pass, 
through which a current rushes like a mill race. In 
fact, the tide is so strong, that a steamboat may be 
headed stem on to. a rock that lies in the center of the 
Pass and not be able to strike it, the swirl of rushing 
water throwing the vessel off as il she was a feather. 

Pressing steadily on we pass headland after headland, 
when at last the open sea is gained and our bows are 
once more turned to the southward. Along this coast 
we pass Greymouth and Hokitiki. the seats of vast coal 
mines and other minerals. Here also lies the 40-mile 
beach, from the sands of which gold is panned out. 
Washed in by the ever rolling surf, its source has never 
been traced. It is generally believed that it is washed 
down the mountain sides to the rivers, then carried out 
to sea, to be cast back on the -AO-mile beach. 

In the early morn we round the headland and there 
lies Port Lyttelton. It is the height of the grain season, 
a veritable forest of masts is visible, all being engaged in 
having their holds filled with the golden grain: others 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 31 

with tallow, wool, flax, rabbit skins, frozen mutton, etc. 
The immense quantity of freight to be shipped necessi- 
tates the working of night and day shifts, the docks 
being liberally lit up by electricity for that purpose. 

Eeaching the dock we land and proceed to wander 
o'er this quaint little town. Perched as it is on the side 
of a hill, which necessitated pretty much climbing all 
the time, and its population catering to its particular 
class of customers, sailors and firemen, with a sprinkling 
of fishermen, etc. 

Having strolled around and seen all worth seeing we 
take the cars for Christchurch, to reach which we have 
to pass through a minature St. Gothard tunnel, cut 
into the solid rock, and which represents a gigantic feat 
of engineering: but it brought the City of Christchurch 
within nine miles of the port, and it was the only means 
of doing it without crossing over a mountain ridge called 
the Zig-zag and thence by a roundabout way. 

In a short while we get off the cars at a large and 
handsome station, and we are in Christchurch, the 
modern Venice (but handsomer still then the Queen of 
the Adriatic, with its gloomy canals, and tainted and 
discolored waters). With its two rivei^, the Avon and 
the Heathcote purling their way thrcaigh the heart of 
the city and bridged over so as to connect the main 
thoroughfares, said roads being wide and in splendid 
condition . 

The City of Christchurch is built in a perfect square, 
enclosed by four belts, as the border roads are termed 
the Xorth, South, East and West belts, the roads all 
running parallel from belt to belt, of generous width 
and with plenty of shade trees. 



32 A TRIP TO MAORILANB 

We now take a guide and first proceed to pay a visit 
to Cathedral Square, where the cathedral, an imposing 
edifice stands, with the "Lyttelton Times'' office near- 
by. We drop into TattersalPs horse mart, where you 
can supply your equine needs, horse, saddle and bridle, 
from fo up. Coming out of there we secure a rig and 
drive up the Papanui road to the place of that name, 
and to which a line of tramway runs. Passing through 
Papanui we keep on a well made road and in due course 
reach Cheney's Corner, a hamlet on the banks of the 
Waimakarirri Elver, which like the Mississipi, is con- 
stantly changing its banks and course. 

After feeding and watering the horses we start on a 
visit to Rangiora, about 14 miles distance. On arriving 
we found the town in rather a hard fix. A few days 
previous there had been a shock of earthquake and all 
the artesian wells had stopped running, which necessi- 
tated their being driven deeper. To i-eturn we take 
another route and pass Sunnyside Lunatic Asylum, 
with its well kept grounds and noble walks. From this 
point of vantage we can gaze upon a vast stretch of open 
plain, dotted here and there with huge stacks of corn; 
said view being only a glimpse of that large tract of 
country known as the Canterbury plains. 

In the course of an hour or so we arrive at that pretty 
little suburb, Sydenham, lying on the south side of the 
South belt of the city, and nestled at the foot of a range 
of hills that shelters the whole valley from the rude 
gales that blow from the ocean. Here most of the 
artizans of the community reside, and own their little 
"patch;" a large number of them being employed on the 
railroad, whose line of rails form the dividing line of 
Christchurch and Svdenham. 



A TRIP TO xMAOKlLAxNJJ 33 

Leaving here we proceed up Colombo street and enter 
the city and visit the park, a well laid out and hand- 
somely flowered domain on the bank of the Heathcote, 
on the bosom of which may be seen the proud SAvan 
paddling majestically along, paj'ing no heed to the 
passing row-boat, in which perchance some swain is 
pouring "soft nothings" into his companion's ear. It is 
a glorious sight to stand on one of the numerous bridges 
and listen to the twittering of the birds, aquatic and 
land, while members of the finny tribe lazily wend their 
way up stream, and one is apt to exclaim aloud, "How 
beautiful !'- 

It is with profound regret that we tear ourselves away 
from this halcyon scene, but we have to visit New 
Brighton, the favorite seaside resort of the people of 
Christchurch. After a short but pleasant drive we 
reach and view the endless stretch of sandy beach; so 
beautifnl, but so treacherous. To look at it one would 
think it was like any other beach; but our guide took 
us with him to the water line, where instead of a gradual 
deepening, there was a sheer abyss, with an almost im- 
perceptible current running that would speedily drown 
the unfortunate man or beast that got into it. It is here 
that the Avaters of the Avon and the Heathcote find 
their outlet. A pecidiar fish, considered a great deli- 
cacy, is found on these sands after a heavy frost, it is 
generally known as the Frosttish. - 

We again make a start and soon get to the foot of 
the range where we follow the road known as the zig- 
zag, and it is not misnamed. ArriA'ing at the top we 
behold a splendid panoramic view of Christchurch on 
the one hand and Port Lyttleton on the other, after a 
rest we commence the descent and in a short while we 
once more tread the streets of Lvttleton. 



34 A TRIP TO MAORILAND 

Arriviug at our hotel, where after a bath and a 
hearty supper we adjourn to the smoking-room, and 
amid clouds of smoke it is decided to start the next 
morning for Port Chalmers, the port and outlet of the 
City of Dunedin . 






A TRIP TO MAORILAND 35 



CHAPTEE XI. 

Somewhat loathe to leave our nests we sti^uggle out 
in time for breakfast, after which we proceed to the 
wharf and board the s.s. Tui and soon leave Lyttelton 
far behind, still going south, and in due course we enter 
the harbor of Port Chalmers. 

Dnnedin was originally a Scotch settlement, and re- 
tains to this day many of the customs and traditions of 
that race. It is a well-built city and prosperity seemed 
to prevail. A great portion of it is hilly; one street in 
particular attracted our attention, it having a power 
house at the top which hauled the street cars up the 
steep incline; a mode of travelling which is all right, 
no doubt, as long as everything holds. We visited all 
the principal buildings, parks, etc., then turned our steps 
for the hotel with the intention of having a good rest 
prior to starting on our journey lor the last city in the 
southern extremity of the Middle Island, Invercargill. 

Leaving Port Chalmers, and still going south, we 
finally reach the entrance of Foveaux Straits, which 
divides the Middle Island from the South Island, or 
Stuart Island, said island being comparatively small and 
populated mainly by fishermen . 

Invercargill is a prosperous city, some miles inland, 
its seaport being the Bluffs, with which it is connected 
by rail. We also pay a visit to Lake Wakatipu. As 
we approach the lake the train winds its way through 
the ' 'Five Eiver Plains, ' ' which takes this name from 
five streams that pass through it. 



8(5 A TKIP TO MAOKILAND 

Here, the seeiieiy is magnificent, all around iis are 
mountains, the highest peaks covered with perpetual 
snow. In the distance, higher than all the rest, is one 
clearly defined against the sky, but oftener veiled by the 
fleecy clouds that sweep around it. 

Keturning to oui- halting place we take a parting look 
around, almost feeling sad at the fact that soon we will 
leave tlie shores of Xew Zealand far behind; a country 
we found to exceed in every way what we had heard re- 
garding it. and wishing that we could more fully visit 
its wonders and beauties; but having seen the principal 
portions we would recommend others to go and do 
likewise, and we feel assured that they will be well i-e- 
paid for theii- trouble and expense. 

As an item of interest I insert the following, being of 
recent date: 

The great Maori tangi in honor of the late Mr. Richard 
Seddon, Premier of Xew Zealand (says The British 
Australasian) was one of the most impressive and 
picturesque ceremonies ever witnessed in Xew Zealand. 

First. Hori Te Huki. a grey old chief, broke out into 
a lament, in which all his ]3eoi)le joined, an ancient 
lament by a widow for her departed husband — 

Eestless I lie 

Within my lonely house. 

For the loved one of my life 

Has passed away. 
Behold yon glistening star, so bright — 
Perhaps 'tis my beloved friend 
Returned to me again! 
Oh, sire, return! 
And tread with me again 
The old loved paths. 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 37 

Eruera Te Kahu and Eatana I^gahina, chiefs of the 
l!^gatiapa tribe, led their people in a mourning chant, an 
adaptation of an old and oft-sung Apakura. 

Place in his ear the precious jewel-stone. 

The greenstone kahurangi, 

Hang on his breast the koko-tangiwai. 

Of glistening lucid jade. 

O thou wert a prop within the house; 

At the prow of the canoe thou wert, 

Ears bent to the splashing sound of many paddles 

In the waters of Yoneke; 

In the contentions of the People's Council. 

Our prized kaka-bird has gone, 

The plumes alone remain. 

Next came the chiefs of the Greenstone Land— only 
two or three of them, but the big half-caste rangitira, 
Timoti Whiua (better known as George Eobinson), 
made up in size for his people's sparsity of numbers. He 
is a man of almost gigantic stature, and he chanted his 
dirge with thrilling intensity: 

Keen blows the Nor- West wind, 

Wind from the Mountain-land, 

Bringing sad thoughts of thee. 

Where, O Hetana, art thou gone? 

Perhaps in Council Hall thou'rt laid, 

To await thy people's coming. 

Yes, there lies thy mortal shell, 

Eesting at last 

From its many, from its innumerable travels, 

From its ceaseless goings to and fro. 

The veteran, Wi Pere., ex-M. H. E., with his people, 
sang the next chant: 



38 A TRIP TO MAORILAND 

Afflictions deepest gloom 

Enwraps this house. 

For in it Seddon lies, 

Whose death eats out our hearts. 

'Twas he to whom we closest clung 

In days gone by 

O whispering northwest breeze, 

Blow fair for me. 

Waft me to Poneke 

And taka me to the friend I loved 

In days gone by. 

O peoples all and tribes, 

Eaise the loud cry of grief; 

For the Ship ol Fate has passed 

Port Jackson 'S distant cape, 

And on the all-destroying sea 

Our great one died. 

The final scene was a dramatic climax. The songs, 
the high-pitched cries of farewell, cries almost of despair, 
had wrought both Maoris and pakehas up to a pitch of 
deepest feeling. Takarangi Mete Kingi rose to his feet, 
and, circling his mere round his head, cried the opening- 
words of the waiata : 

Whagaronge e te ran 
Tenei te tupuna o te mate. 

The effect was electrical. The people sprang to their 
feet, women and men, and, with the energetic chieftain - 
esses Wiki and Utauta on opposite sides of the Wanga- 
nui and Xgatiaqa party, gesticulating and '*i)ukana"ing 
with rolling eyes, they broke into a grand chorus — an 
old and well- remembered chant to Death . They stamped 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 39 

and threw their arms this way and that, and the women 
waved aloft their leafy trophies of sorrow, as they 
chanted : 

Hearken, O ye people 

This is the parent of death, 

Our common ancestor, 

Who must embrace us all. 

'Twas conceived in the Eeinga 

'Twas engendered in the Dark Sad Mght. 

'Tis but a breath from heaven 

And we pass away for ever 

We fall, and prone we lie. 

And ever soundly sleep. 

We slumber with our knees drawn up, 

We slumber stricken in a heap. 

Eyes rolling, feathers dancing, black tresses tossing, and 
weapons brandished in the air, the people ended their 
great song with a long-drawn "E-e.'' Takarangi, still 
quivering his mere in an excited hand, cried loud fare- 
well higher and higher, until he almost screamed it— 

Depart ! Depart ! Depart ! 






40 A TRIP TO MAOEILAND 



CHAPTER XII. 

The following interesting article I cull from the Utica 
Globe of October 27, 1906, believing it Would be appro- 
priate to these pages and of interest to my readers: 

Of all the savages England has sought to civilize, the 
development of the Maoris, as the aborigines of Xew 
Zealand are called, stands out as the greatest achieve- 
ment. Only a couple of generations back the Maoris 
were cannibals; to-day their descendants are member 
of Parliament and hold other offices of trust and respon- 
sibility under the government. Tliey are faithful public 
servants, and, perhaps, more remarkable, they are 
honest ones. For years after its discovery by Tasman 
aud Cook, explorers shunned Xew Zealand because it 
was peopled by man-eating tribes. It was known to be 
rich in timber and minerals, while the waters abounded 
with whale and seal, but the cannibals were feared. 
Finally, however, the whites entered and began trading 
and then came the missionaries, who directed their ef- 
forts toward uprooting cannibalism. It took years to 
Christianize the Maoris and then to bring them to terms 
with the British government, which was not accomplished 
without two great wars. Finally they were beaten, but 
never conqueied. However, when they did finallj^ make 
a treaty, it was a lasting one, and they have lived up to 
it to this day. 

A wonderful people are the Maoris. In their primi- 
tive state they were brave and high-spirited, possessing 
a nobiiity of character higher than any other aborigines 



A TRIP T(J MAOKILAND 4l- 

discovered by the English. There is an artistic instinct 
in the New Zealander that has never died out. They 
possess a wonderful gift of wood carving, and the work 
that has been done with the rude tools of stone and shell 
rivals the gold and silver workings of the Aztecs. Each 
tribe or clan liad a style of ornament of its own, and 
from father to son the gift seemed to be handed down. 
Most of their work was lavished on the tribal meeting 
houses, and also the houses of their feudal chiefs were 
richly decorated, every inch of space being curiously 
carved. They even went so far as to decorate the posts 
upon which the houses were raised, a couple of feet 
above the ground,' and every timber was worked over in 
some way. 

These natives never forgot their love of fighting, even 
in the artistic. They would build a high stockade en- 
tirely around their villages, and every few feet would 
erect a large wooden figure, grotesquely carved about the 
face to represent tattooing, another art in which they ex- 
celled, and the rest of the body richly decorated. The 
Maori artistS' were grotesquely humorous beyond common 
acceptance, perhaps, when dealing with life, but the 
work was always finely decorative and fitted to the ob- 
ject intended. 

Every man in the clan was tattooed, according to his 
standing and achievements, in a most wondeiful way. 
and even the women tattooed their chins and bodies. 

The English point with pardonable pride to the devel- 
opment of the Maoris. Only a few generations back 
their one motive or object in life was to fight, for this 
they had tribal organization; all their ceiemonies con- 
templated war; it was not only the final settlement of 
all kinds of disputes, but often the amusement of their 
leisure, when there was. tor the moment, nothing else to 



tt2 A TKIP TO MAOKILAJSID 

do. They built their well- intrenched villages on strat- 
egic points, and were ever ready to give battle to the 
first comer. Their object was to fight, not so much to 
win or for gain; but to fight; and to win without a hard 
fight was no satisfaction to the victors. 

The origin of the Maoris is a much -disputed point; it 
is, however, certain that they are of the stock that 
peopled all of Polynesia, who came eastward from the 
Indies through Malaysia. Many tribes or packs spread 
to the Sandwich Islands, to Tahiti and Samoa, preserv- 
ing, under dialetic forms, the names of their long-ago 
home, and affixing it to some part of the new one. 
Hawaii preserved the tradition of a land called by the 
Maoris Hawaiiki. 

To-day they are a changed people, and the warlike 
spirit is lacking to a marked degree in the new genera- 
tions. 

It is a sad fact, but true, that the commingling with 
the white race has greatly changed the Maori. He no 
longer can do the striking and beautiful wood carving 
that his ancestor created with rudfe instruments of green 
stone and jade. Tlieir hand has lost its touch; the 
originality gone, they can only copy in a half-hearted 
way the work that in years agone was a pleasure and 
joy to their fathers. They have, however, made won- 
derful advances along educational lines, being naturally 
intelligent, eager to learn, and quick to take advantage 
of every opportunity, falling into the ways of the whites 
almost as a second nature. What a glowing tribute to 
the progress of the Maori people is given when it is 
i^alized that a number of Maoris have been elected to 
the Parliament of Xew Zealand, and ably represent their 
people in a country so well governed that it compels the 



A TiilP TO MAORILAND 43 

admiration of the world, while their ancestors, only a 
couple of generations ago, were out-and-out cannibals. 
The Maori squaws of yesterday are thinking women of 
to-day, and have been given the right to vote. 

It is a sad fact that the Maoris are rapidly decreasing 
in numbers; the change from the old life of activity and 
freedom in their lofty mountain homes to the lazy exist- 
ence in cities close to the sea has impaired the health of 
the present generation, and each year many succumb to 
that dread disease, the white plague, which is widely 
spreading among the people." 

Such is the country we have been travelling through; 
a country where all classes work only forty- eight hours 
a week; one half-day being granted, not necessarily on 
a Saturday, but as best suits the employer. The rail- 
ways, etc., are owned by the government; in fact, it is 
plainly evident, that the affairs of 'New Zealand are run 
by the people and for the people, an example that might 
well be followed bv older countries. 






4:4 A iUJP TO MAOKILA^JJ 



CHAPTER XIII. 

We now with considerable regret, yet tinged with the 
longing for further travel, proceed to take our tickets 
for Sydney, Xew South Wales, one of the principal 
cities on the Australian continent, and wend our way to 
the wharf where we get on board the ss. Arawata, which 
is to be our floating home for the next four or five days. 
AVe soon clear Foveaux Straits, and for the first time iu 
many days our prow is turned northward. 

On our second day out, and in the deepening shades 
of evening, we saw what was thought to be a ship on 
tire, ))ut which, on a nearer approach turned out to be a 
whaling vessel "trying-out,'' the glare seen being the 
fires under the huge coppers in which the blubber was 
being melted. It was a notable sight, the deck of the 
vessel all alight, the forms of the men visible fluttering 
hither and thither, seemed almo>>t to pertain to the 
supernatural. We soon leave the whaler in its lonesome 
pursuit, and the next morning we can just make out the 
reflection on the clear sky of the coast line of that vast 
island, Australia, on which we expect to land on the 
morrow. 

Sure enough, at early morn of the fourth day we pass 
between the two headlands that form the entrance to 
Sydney harbor, one of the finest natural harbors in the 
world. On the one side is a lofty headland, on which is 
mounted a battery of heavy guns that coidd sink a ship 
in the ofling, the said ship not being able to elevate its 
guns sufficient to return the fire with any effect. On 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 45 

the other side lays Manly Beach, a charming little 
seaside resort, much frequented by the inhabitants of 
the city. Eight ahead is the entrance to the Paramatta 
Eiver, over whose bosom notable boat races have been 
won and lost, and at the head of which are immense 
orange orchards, where oranges of different varieties are 
grown for home consumption. It was right here that 
our photographic artist, E. C. Cheesman, made good use 
of his opportunities. Proceeding up the harbor we have 
that fashionable suburb, the l^orth Shore, on our right; 
and on the left are WooUoomoolloo and Cow Bay, where 
the government vessels lie. Beyond these, a short dis- 
tance, we reach our wharf. Circular Quaj^, where a large 
number of steamers and sailing craft were loading for 
all parts of the globe. Here we land, and realize that 
we are in the city that has been aptly termed the 
''Queen of the South." 

We proceed up Pitt street and take up our quartei-s 
at "Punch's Hotel," well pleased to make the acquaint- 
ance of a good and stationary bed, even though having 
been only four days -on shipboard. A most noticable 
difference of climate is perceptible to that we have just 
left; here the air is warm and balmy, producing that 
"tired feeling" that is always felt in tropical and semi- 
tropical countries, and we linger on the piazza till late 
at night gazing at the magnificently clear and star lit 
sky, that wonderful constellation, the Southern Cross, 
being plainly visible, and which marks the time in the 
heavens at night as does the sun in the day; the South- 
ern Cross being exactly perpendicular at midnight. 

Starting off after breakfast we make for the park, 
called the Domain, which covers an immense area of 
undulating land, well timbered, and beautiful walks. 



46 A. TRIF TO MAORILAND 

bordered on the one side by the waters of the harbor. 
Here we visit an historic seat and trysting place, which 
is named after the wife of a former Governor, "Lady 
Maquarie's Chair.'' 

Adjoining the park is the suburb of WooUoomoolloo, 
where we visit the large and scrupulously clean fish 
market. Entering the market what a sight meets one's 
gaze; heaps of glittering fish of every variety, with 
shellfish galore, are piled all over the place in abund- 
ance. The local dealers, after making their purchases, 
rush it on to their wagons and hurry off to retail to 
their customers. 

Cutting across the park we walk down King street 
and into George street, where we view the handsome 
post office building and many other up-to-date stores, 
etc. A step or two to the left and we are on the 
"Eocks," a portion of old Sydney, which lies on a rocky 
elevation high above the main city. Here the streets 
are narrow and decline steeply to the piers at their base. 
This is strictly "Jack's" particular section, every store 
being devoted to supplying him with every description 
of maritime need, from a needle to an anchor. 

Retracing our steps to George street we take seats on 
the top of a "bus" for a trip to Botany Bay, the one- 
time penal settlement, but now a beautifully laid out 
pleasure resort. Lying on the brink of the bay from 
which it takes its name it is an ideal spot, and is visited 
by the city people and others with never failing interest. 
A short distance from here is the pumping station which 
supplies Sydney withi water. In another direction are 
quicksands that have claimed many victims; anything, 
large or small, being immediately engulfed in this 
treacherous desert. 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 47 

We here met some of the original inhabitants of Aus- 
tralia, the aboriginals; short, miserable specimens of 
humanity; in fact they are classed as the lowest order 
of human being, and have not, perchance, had time 
enough to obliterate their Darwinian ancestors. The 
"gin" (woman) is slightly more advanced. They live 
on snakes and other reptiles, ^dth a rat or two thrown 
in as a dessert, and receive rations and blankets from 
the government. They are expert trackers across the 
vast sandy deserts in pursuit of evil-doers and are ex- 
pert in the use of the boomerang, a heavy curved stick, 
which they can throw and hit an object behind a tree; 
in fact, they can throw it in a direct line from them- 
selves and cause it to return to their feet: but it would 
be impossible to describe how it is done. 

Having seen all that was possible we resume our seats 
and start back for Sydney. It being now dusk we can 
see the shimmering lights of this handsomely laid out 
city, and a magnificent and never-to-be-forgotten scene 
it was . 

AVe get off at Lower George street to visit ' 'Paddy 'S 
Market," as it is called, and here we join the throng 
who are pushing and trading in every known article that 
can be mentioned, and it would be hard to say what you 
could not purchase here; each huxter loudly proclaiming 
his pre-eminence. Strolling up Pitt street we view the 
Herald office, Punch's Hotel, etc.. and leach home tired 
but well pleased. 

To-morrow we will take one of the "GO-milers" (as 
the steamers are called ) to take a glimpse of Newcastle, 
the coal mine of Australia, and from where coal is 
shipped to all points east and west. 



48 A TKIP TO MAX)R1LAND 

Bright and early we get on board one of the palatial 
boats that ply on this route, whose fittings are not to be 
excelled by any of our crack liners, and in three hours 
or so we are entering the ''Nuggets," the lighthouse at 
the entrance of the harbor. Bounding the breakwater 
we behold a fleet of vessels of all sizes and description 
loading "black diamonds;" the noise of the coal as it is 
poured down the shutes is deafening and continuous. 
Here we were shown an immense natural bathing pool 
amid the rocks, a basin, over the sides of which the 
waves poured in to overflow elsewhere. 

Being purely a seaport we were not greatly interested 
so it was decided to take the boat leaving that night for 
Adelaide, South Australia. Steaming along the coast 
we pass, beside numerous other places, Wallaroo, a great 
copper mining district, then in turn Glenelg, the mail 
landing seaside resort, and after navigating very tortu- 
ous waters we reach Port Adelaide, which is nine miles 
distant from the City of Adelaide. 

On landing we visit the dockyard, etc. It was here, 
too, that we received an invitation to visit a well-known 
farmer and bird-catcher on the Peninsula. The manner 
of proceedure was thus: Two large frames with netting 
are laid open on the ground with strings leading from 
them to a hut erected in the nearby bush, and from 
which the man watches and manipulates the contrivance. 
In the center of this are placed call birds and grain, and 
when a flock of shell parrots, known as "love birds," 
pass over, the well trained call birds do their part and 
the flock descends, when hundreds are captured, caged 
and exported to all parts of the globe. 

We were likewise shown an endless variety of parrots 
and other birds. One of the drawbacks was the large 



ST* 

o 






n 

ST* 



r 







A TRIP TO MAORILAND 49 

number of reptiles; frilled lizards, blind lizards, snakes, 
ete., keeping one on the look out both in the open and 
bush, but in couree of time they will be a thing of the 
past. 

After an enjoyable day we return to our hotel, ready 
for a good night's rest and an early start for the City of 
Adelaide. We duly arrive at the city and proceed to 
walk around and admire the wide and well-kept streets 
and handsome buildings. We then take a trip up the 
Blue Mountains, the road bed on which is cut on the 
face of the mountain side, a perfect zig-zag; you could 
almost jump from the locomotive on to the rear car of 
the train, so sharp were the curves. 

It was here we were agreeably surprised by our guide. 
After leaving the train we clamber up the steep ascent 
and finally reach a plateau. Facing us in the distance 
was another lofty peak. We had now the opportunity 
of testing the celebrated echo of which we had heard so 
much. We howled, whistled and hello'd, and it came 
back to us from that distant peak as distinct as from a 
gramaphone. 

Hearing a peculiar cry from another direction, our 
guide answered it. C'oo-ee-ee, is the nearest spelling of 
the call that is used by the shepherd, bushman, city 
dweller, lady, gentleman, or child. It is generally used 
as a means of attracting attention. The shepherds on 
the hills can make one another hear from great distances. 

While up in the mountains we had an experience of a 
"southerly buster," a veritable hurricane of hot wind 
with clouds of dust that permeated everything. 

In this section of the country there abounds a white 
ant that travels in myriads, turning neither to the right 
nor lelt, but eating their way through everything, 



50 A TKIP TO MAORILAND 

houses, barns and walls. It is not an unusual thing for 
a bullock to drop dead in its tracks; and should a way- 
farer happen to pass that way an hour or so after, he 
would only find the skeleton, the ants having eaten 
every particle of meat and hide. Having vis;ited every- 
thing in the vicinity we return to the Port, intending to 
remain there and rest up before taking passage on one 
of the steamships that go round Cape Horn. 



M//1 
/^/\\ 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 51 



CHAPTER XIV. 

The day of departure has arrived and we get our 
trunks on board, and in one sense glad to turn our laces 
homeward; but still wishing we had the time to pene- 
trate further into this vast and interesting country. 

Arriving on board our floating home we find the usual 
leave takings going on. Some old Colonials, who have 
made their "pile," are going to visit the Old Country; 
others are taking their children over to be placed in 
some university; all seeming to be imbued with the one 
idea though — that of coming back -and who would 
blame them for wishing to return to the land of sun- 
shine and plenty. 

The ropes are cast off from the dock, the good-by's 
called in varied tones, and the oft uttered request, 
•'Mind you write," and Ave are again breasting the tide 
toward the open sea, not to see a glimpse of terra firm a 
for some fifteen days or so. 

As on the outward passage the weather is only suit- 
able for amusement below, except for the old voyager 
who constantly takes his walk on deck no matter what 
the weather is like; and thus it goes on day by day till we 
reach that most dreary and desolate spot, Cape Horn, 
situated at the southern extremity of Patagonia (^ Terra 
del Fuego. or land of fire i, the two forming the Straits 
of Magellan . 

Here, only the plaintive cry of the seal, the roar of 
the sea lion and the shriek of the various sea birds are 
heard; the Albatross, measuring 14 to 16 feet from one 



62 A TRIP TO MAORILAND 

wing tip to the other; the Mollyhawk, the equal of the 
Albatross; the beautifully- marked Cape pigeon, the Sea 
Gull and the tiny Stormy Petrel, who seek no shelter ex- 
cept the lea of the high running waves, are the only 
denizens of this vast waste of water and barren shores. 
Here, in the winter months, the sun only rises for some 
two or three hours then dips again; but a benificent 
providence has provided against total darkness by the 
Aurora Borealis and the myriads of stars which leaves 
it as a summer evening twilight. In the summer season 
these conditions are reversed. 

Leaving Cape Horn far behind and skirting the land 
we alternately pass the mouth of the Eiver Platte and 
Buenos Ayres, from whence a large number of cattle 
are exported yearly. Still further north and we pass 
Santos, the most southern port of any note in Brazil, 
and in due coarse we once more enter the heads leading 
into the harbor of Eio de Janeiro, where we have to 
take in coal to complete the voyage. 

As soon as the anchor was let go we engage a boat 
and off we go to stretch our legs and have a view of this 
large and typical city. Like all tropical cities white is 
the predominant : color, with green blinds to keep the 
fierce rays of the sun out. Two noticeable features are 
to be found here, the incessant blowing of the bugles by 
the soldiery and the never-ceasing clanging of the bells 
of the numerous churches. 

We take the eletric car for Bota Foga, the residential 
section of the English speaking residents of Eio, and a 
place worth seeing. Imagine a double row of palms and 
other tropical trees extending for miles, here and there 
seats, electric lights gleaming among the leaves as so 
manv fireflies, while excellent music falls on the ear in 



A TRIP TO MAORILAND 53 

iiuisoii with the rippling laughter of the many richly 
dressed women and men who saunter along in full en- 
joyment of all this natural beauty. As a background 
to this are high mountains, while for a frontispiece there 
is the noble harbor with its forts silhoueted on its mirroi' 
like surface, and the numberless vessels lying at anchor, 
while others are only to be noticed by their lights as 
they ply about the harbor to their various destinations. 
Truly a scene from fairyland, and one not soon forgotten. 
We return to the jetty and proceed on board. By 
morning the coal is on board, the custom's officials have 
given the captain his clearance papers, and we steam 
down the harbor and out through the heads, and Kio de 
Janeiro is but a memory. 

With our bows again pointing north we in turn pass 
Eio Grande, Bahia and Pernambuco, all said places 
being in the Brazil. A few days and again the glad cry 
of "Land, ho-' is heard, and away in the distance, as if 
piercing the clouds, lies the Peak of Teneriffe, which is 
visible in clear weather for some thirty miles. We soon 
get near enough to enjoy the view, and from here tele- 
graphic messages will be forwarded to the sevej-al mer- 
chants who have freight on the vessel, which will enable 
them to judge of her probable arrival and place it on 
the market. 

We drop anchor in the bay, from whence we can 
plainly see the pretty little village on the mountain side, 
the. little white buildings being apparently one above 
the other. We here had the opportunity of seeing a 
catamaran, it is used as a boat, consisting of two logs 
{ one large, the other small ) separated by two bamboo 
poles, and carrying a large sail, the smaller log keeping 
this peculiar craft from capsizing, and on which they go 
out in anv sort of weather. 



54 A TRIP TO MAOKILAND 

After a brief stay we are off again, the weather 
gradually getting cooler, and we pass Barbadoes, Trini- 
dad, Martinique and other islands of the West Indies. 
A few days later we catch a glimpse of Bermuda, and 
are now on the "home stretch," for ere long we will 
land on the dock in the North Eiver, feeling all the 
better in health and proud of the experience of having 
seen so many strange sights and the different people 
with whom we have mingled, that we would honestly 
recommend one and all to go and do likewise. 






A TRIP TO MAORILAND OO 



CHAPTER XV. 

It was a glad moment when we sighted Sandy Hook 
and viewed the many steam and sailing vessels making 
their way to or from that great market, Xew York; and 
soon we pass under the shadow of the statue of Liberty, 
then to the dock at Hoboken. Landing we take the 
ferryboat and cross the North River, intending to re- 
main a day or two in the metropolis, when after doing 
the sights we take train at the Grand Central station en 
route for our starting point. Lake Placid. 

Early next morning we arrive at Lake Clear station 
change cars for home; and it is only those that have 
been away for a while realize the great import of that 
word and the intensity of its meaning. Reaching Lake 
Placid we jump out as lively and boisterous as a lot 
of boys coming home from school; we "shake" with 
anybody and everybody, so pleased are we to get back. 

We take "foot's horses'' for it, and start up the hill 
with no thought of its steepness, bat only of the beauties 
that we know awaits our view atithe top. We had seen 
the Rimutaka Mountains and others; but when we stood 
on the brow of the hill and gazed upon old Whiteface 
and the rest, it appealed to the whole bunch as none of 
the others had. 

It was, indeed, a most agreeable surprise to see the 
large number of improvements that had been made in 
our mountain home; the electric light, the vastlj' im- 
proved water system, the main street macadamized and 
the many new buildings erected, and to add to the sur- 



56 A TKIP TO MAOKILAND 

prise, a park. All those, with the gigantic improve- 
ments made to the hotels go to make Lake Placid the 
•^resort of resorts," for it stands unique in the breadth 
and length of its ever-changing scenery; hills and dales, 
mountains and lakes, timber and open; the whole 
blending into an exquisite panorama, creating a spot 
where the weary and exhausted may find that perfect 
rest necessary to build up the vitality of the tired body 
and the overwrought brain. Improvements may go on, 
but the natural formation as created by the hands of 
the great Architect of the Universe can never be im- 
proved upon, but will stand to the end of time as a 
monument to his glory. - 

We had put up at innumerable hotels at many places, 
but cannot recall one where the surroundings were equal 
to any of those of Lake Placid; for here they are nestled 
on the brink of the lake or at the foot of a mountain; 
others are perched on the top of some lofty prominence, 
from which magnificent views of lake and mountain can 
be seen, with every requisite at hand for the sportsman 
on land or water, leaving nothing to be desired. 

Another phase of life in Placid appealed to us, the 
fall and winter. In the lands we had visited they knew 
not the music of the sleigh bells or the exhilaration of 
skating and other winter sports; never even having had 
the "pleasure" of getting a snowball in their ear; for 
there they have no snow in the valleys, but only on the 
highest mountain tops. 

At the antipodes their seasons are directly opposite to 
ours. Christmas time is the height of their summer 
and picnics are the order of the day; but it seemed more 
natural to us to be able to sit by a good log fire and gaze 
out of window at the falling snow and the frozen lakes, 
with the pure and bracing air and the odor of the pine. 



A TRIP TO MAOKILAND Di 

We are again sitting on the piazza of the hotel from 
whence we started on our travels, all being highly 
pleased with our varied experience, but still the uni- 
versal opinion was expressed, that there was no place on 
earth to beat our mountain home. Lake Placid, and 
the places we had visited only accentuated the glorious 
beauties which abound here on every side. 

So now, having brought my party safely back to Lake 
Placid, and hoping that they have enjoyed themselves 
as much as the writer has, I, with some regret lay down 
my pen and say ''Au revoir." 

Yours respectfully, 

'^PAKEHA MAOEI.^' 



^^ 



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lPJa'08 



A Trip To Maoriland 

(From Lake Placid, 1906-7) 
By PAKEHA MAORI 




Lake Placid, N. Y. 
of^<^^ o^ TKe Lake Placid News 

Clifford Block, Main Street 



Copyright 1907 
By JOHN ROBIN 



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